Mile 2635 through Hart's Pass to mile 2614
Miles: 22 (including hike into Hart's Pass the long way)
I woke up without much in the tank today. I was 16 miles out of Hart's Pass, where I had started two days earlier, and I told myself that I'd be happy with those 16 miles for the day. That would bring my average mileage to 20/day, right at my target that I had set for the first few legs of the hike.
My feet were a challenge again this morning. I could feel blisters forming along my arches, but with blisters on a few of my toes and hot spots on my heels, I didn't know how to step differently to keep my feet in good shape. I leaned heavily on my poles and must have looked like I was half crutching, half vaulting my way down the trail.
I filled my hip belt pockets with snacks before setting out as I've enjoyed eating while hiking these first couple days. Not only does it mean that I can eat whenever I'm hungry, but the process of eating while walking is a distraction that's especially helpful during grueling switchback climbs. Thanks to my constant snacking, I really only take time to eat breakfast and a late day dinner meal. Other beaks have been limited to 10 minutes or so to rest my legs and purify water.
I've found that I'm happy at a slightly slower but continuous pace. So long as my pace is relaxed enough that I can drink water while walking without gasping for air, I'm comfortable. Hayden, the Australian who I've camped with every night so far, hikes faster but takes longer breaks. We ended up passing each other three times today.
Hiking toward Hart's I grew more and more ecstatic to return to the beginning of my hike and to finally hike some new miles. It felt like a homecoming, even though I was there just the day before yesterday.
I rolled into Hart's, resupplied my food from the stash that I had left there, and chatted with a few other hikers and a trail angel who had just driven up to drop off a van full of hikers. I've found that along the trail most everyone is friendly, happy, and ready to stop for a moment to chat. Some folks just say "hi" without stopping, but I still had over a dozen short conversations today. A lot of "where are you headed?" "Where are you from?" "Where's the next water?" "When does this uphill stretch end?" but some longer conversations. One person today told me that I look like the guy from the show Mr. Robot. Will have to look it up post-trail.
At Hart's Pass, I met up again with Hayden and JP, another Aussie who was one of my camp mates last night. They resupplied their packs then both set out from Hart's to a campsite six miles away. They had encouraged me to join but I told them that Hart's was my intended destination.
Interesting turn of events: I realized yesterday that I left my wallet at home. By wallet, I mean my passport into which I had crammed my ID, my credit and debit cards, and cash. I also forgot to print my permit and bring it with me.
Fast forward to this afternoon, I'm resting in Hart's around 3:30 PM, eating salami and cheese and starting to think about finding a spot to camp, so I ask the ranger how camping in the campground works for PCT hikers. Short story: you have to pay. Alternatively, you can hike two miles down the trail and then about a quarter of a mile off the trail to free normal PCT campsites.
So I decided to catch up with the Aussies. Putting on my pack, my muscles ached but somehow my feet felt better than the morning. I geared up, popped my headphones in for only the second time and listened to Neil Gaiman's Anansi Boys as I hiked.
The six miles were gorgeous; the trail climbed gradually and traversed across mountains with views of the valley below and the saw-toothed ranges beyond. In the late day golden light, it was the most beautiful section of the PCT so far.
I was welcomed into camp by a cheer from the Aussies. They wagered that I'd continue past Hart's and join them. We slowly did our end of day camp chores while chatting about life stories. It felt good to finally get to know some folks on the trail.
Lessons of the day: take breaks, eat cheese, keep hiking